I purchased a Bosch router table as it had essentially everything I need out of a router table at a cheaper price than buying components individually. It’s a “benchtop” model, but when placed on a standard bench the table top then sits at about armpit level, which is probably not the safest method to use a router. Also, as I’m collecting router bits and accessories, I find myself needing some dedicated storage for those items. So I decided to built a cart to sit the table on with some drawers. I had plenty of extra plywood (3/4″, 1/2″, and 1/4″) for the project without having to purchase anything specifically for this.
My design just started off as a set of rough measurements for the target height and the table width & depth. I then subtracted out the height for some casters. This gave me the overall dimensions for a cabinet carcass. I figured it was time to try to make some rabbet joints for this carcass. A rabbet is a channel cut along the edge of board to accept a perpendicular board. You’ve probably seen it before even if you didn’t know what it was called. This allows for two planes of gluing surface at the joint, which makes the joint remarkably stronger. I recently got a dado blade set for my table saw and figured this was a perfect time to try this joinery method out.1
I cut the 3/4″ x 3/8″ rabbets along all top and bottom panels. I then cut a 1/4″ x 3/8″ rabbet along the back edge of the top, bottom, and side panels to accept the rear panel of the cabinet. The other nice thing about this method of joinery is that it really requires only glue. No mechanical fasteners are necessary. I will say that I was able to get the carcass mostly square just by gluing up the top, bottom, and side panels. I really should have glued the back at the same time and that would have ensured the entire box was square, but I just didn’t have enough large clamps. It’s square-ish and functions fine, but I can see the gap around the drawer faces isn’t consistent.
I built a couple of drawer boxes out of 1/2″ plywood. These were joined with simple pocket holes. The 1/4″ plywood bottoms were glued and brad nailed into place. I removed one of the drawer fronts from my drill press cart to trace the hand cutout onto the new drawer fronts. I quickly cut these on the bandsaw and then sanded them down to a smooth shape. Even though it may let some dust in, I like the simplicity of using these cutouts instead of drawer pulls.
The drawers themselves are only 4″ deep but the drawer space for each is about 9″, which allows me to store jigs, router bit boxes, etc. along with my trim router. I got some 2–1/2″ flexible hose and a splitter so I can hook up my 4″ dust collector quick-connect to the router table. I still need to get the quick-connect mounted to the side of the router table. I should probably also do a quick sanding and add some finish to the outside of the cart. But it’s entirely functional and already has helped organize my routers, bits, and accessories.
We moved to our new home back in late June. The irony of having so many projects to do at a new house is that there’s not quite as much time to write about them afterwards. And there have been a lot of projects. Mostly around storage and organizing. That means a lot of shelves need to be built.
We have non-insulated attic space off of one of the bedroom closets. While it’s not awesome having to carry loads and loads through our son’s bedroom, it’s certainly a lot more convenient than the attic over our old separate garage space.
Since part of this area has no flooring (and those portions of the roof trusses aren’t designed for storage loads), I wanted to add some drywall. This would prevent us from pushing anything off the back of the shelves and into this space where it could get lost or, worse, fall through the garage ceiling onto our vehicles! I did a reasonable job of hanging the drywall and mudding the joints and screw heads. I didn’t really do much in the way of sanding, as it’s going to all be covered by the shelves (you have to pick your battles, folks). I also replaced the terrible lighting with four LED strip lights, which is more than enough for this 24′ by 6′ space.
The design of the shelves is pretty simple and modular. The shelves are 15″ deep, supported by the truss members (you can think of these as wall studs really) along the back and then some 2x3 posts in the front. Those are spaced at 4′ on center. The shelves themselves consist of 2x2 frames and 1/2″ OSB. The 2x2s are ripped down from 2x4s and screwed together. The OSB was ripped into 4′ long by 15″ wide strips using a track saw.
I built all the 2x2 frames in my shop and then carried them up to the attic space. There I could use the laser level to set the bottom shelf height (at 18″ above the floor) and use 3″ screws to secure it to there truss members/studs. I then leveled the shelves front-to-back and secured them with the 2x3 front posts. Lastly, I placed the OSB (smooth side up, which is really upside-down for OSB) down. I screwed it down to the frames every 24″ or so using some 1–1/4″ deck screws.
The modularity of these 2x2 frames made it very easy to vary the lengths to form the “galley” like design I had for this small area.
Lastly, my dad was visiting when we were working on some of our storage projects. He jumped right in an helped out with some of the attic shelves and it was really great getting to do this project with him!
Suffice it to say, we have a lot of stuff. We’ve gone through and gotten rid of loads and still have a lot of stuff. So, while the attic shelves were great we knew they’d be no where near enough. So I also had planned on making some “loft” style shelves for the our garage. We wanted to have everything supported from the ceiling to maximize floor (aka, car) space.
While there are some metal frame kits available, I really liked the method that Jay Bates and Johnny Brooke used for their garages. So I adapted it to our garage. Basically, these are 2x2 ledges along a wall and ceiling, with 2x4 hangers to support plywood shelves. These shelves are about 30″ deep, again with supports (in this case, the hangers) every 4′. The hangers are glued and screwed in place for added stiffness. The shelves themselves are 1/2″ sanded poplar plywood from the home center.
These go up relatively fast once all the dimensioning is in place. Locating the wall studs and ceiling joists is critical here, though. Our garage ceiling actually has a framing change so I had to accommodate for that. Basically, this amounted to switching the 2x2 ceiling ledge to the opposite side of the hanger. I ended up still missing the ceiling joist so I swapped it out for a 2x4 to make up the extra inch or so. It’s not very pretty, but what is is solid. I made the hangers and ledge at a height so that I could easily stack two large bins. With 32 linear feet of 30″ shelves so far, we have a ton of storage out here now.
Still More to Go
The reality is that we’re still not done. Most of what we have left to sort through are boxes of books. Some we’ll keep and put on bookshelves inside but a lot of them are out-of-date reference books or even technical books from college that we just no longer need.
I also want to add some of the garage loft storage over the shop area garage door. This will be for storing painting, tiling, drywall, etc. supplies and tools that we need less often. It’s easy to pull them down with a ladder but there’s just no need for these to take up floor or shelf space in the shop or garage area.
No, not the site. It’s not been updated but just because I’ve been extra busy (and/or lazy). Rather, our family is moving to a new home.
As part of the effort, I decided I should just bite the bullet and purchase a small trailer. We need to put a lot of items into storage for this move, but there was no way we could do it all in a day (thus, making trailer rentals extra pricey). So I purchased a 4’x8’ folding trailer, which collapses down (up?) to so it can be stored off to the side of a garage. Probably the most popular trailer in the “small folding” category is the one at Harbor Freight. Well, there at least out of stock anywhere within 100s of miles of me (so I assume very popular). So I purchased the very similar but slightly more expensive model from Northern Tool, branded as an Ironton trailer. I’m pretty sure it’s mostly the same as the Harbor Freight, but I did note a few structural differences in the two. Otherwise, this is the black one where the one from HF is red.
The trailer comes in three boxes, each of which weights in at around 75 lbs. Suffice it say, despite being a “light duty” trailer, this thing is assuredly made of solid steel. The frame is about 1/4″ material, mostly channel shapes. It required some larger metric sockets than I had, so I be prepared for that as well (It’s a product made in China, which should surprise no one at this price, so of course it’s all metric). I broke down the boxes to give myself a work surface for assembly. The frame assembly itself is relatively straight-forward. The instructions, while not great, are relatively well written and illustrated. I didn’t find myself putting any parts in backwards or anything as a result.
I had to purchase a sheet of 3/4 plywood for the decking surface, along with the associated hardware. I’ll be garage storing this trailer (and by the nature of it being open, only using it in generally good weather, too!). So I just bought some standard pine plywood and zinc hardware. Still, with the current price of lumber, that set me back about $100. I did have the big-box store cut the plywood into two 4’x4’ squares. This is to facilitate the folding action, but also makes it easier to get home if, well, you don’t have a trailer. I measured out the holes for the decking as accurately as possible and then just started bolting the carriage bolts into place. I wanted the bolt heads to have a low profile; but didn’t really have any of my tools handy to countersink large bolt heads. So carriage bolts worked well. Honestly, they’re usually my preference for bolting lumber, anyway. For holes I didn’t get quite aligned, I just used the frame holes as sort of a drill guide and slotted the holes out a bit. The steel is much harder than the wood, of course, so this works to easily get the mis-aligned holes corrected.
The wiring was pretty simple, though I was a bit disappointed that the trailer kit didn’t include a connection harness. It’s a $5 part, at most, and pretty standard I think. The last bit of assembly I did was to drill for and bolt on four D‑ring style anchor points on the sides of the trailer. Probably another $20 for the anchors and hardware, but pretty essential for my planned usage of the trailer. Another issue was the casters; or rather attaching them. Most of the bolts are nylon locking which is fine in most cases. But I couldn’t think of a way to attach the casters with this nut type. So I just bought some more metric nuts with split/lock washers. These I were able to tighten up with the impact driver without the caster bearing just spinning in place.
And with that, the trailer was ready to roll! My brothers came over to help me with the first real use of loading it up. We took some furniture off to the storage unit. The real test came next: moving my wife’s upright piano! We all had our own guesses on how much this thing weighs, but I think we sort of settled on around 400 lbs. Now, there is no ramp on this trailer. So even I backed it up to the curb edge, we still had to lift that piano over a foot off of the dolly and on to the deck. We had to call over our friend Adam to lend a hand! But the five of us (Angela wasn’t going to let us move her piano without her direct supervision and assistance), we managed to do so. We did rough up some of the finish on a lower panel when getting it off the trailer, but it still played great. Stayed in tune, even! And I’d say with a 400 lb piano and five adults on the deck, we were definitely putting the load capacity of the trailer to the test.
Ultimately, this trailer is going to get used to move sheet goods and lumber home from the hardware or big box store for projects in our new house. It takes me about 10 minutes to get it out, bolted secure in the “trailer” mode, and hitched up. And that’s a lot faster than trying to get sheet goods cut down & then loaded into my SUV (even when that is possible). So, I’d plan on another $150 or so in wood, hardware, and wiring on top of the price of this trailer (and that doesn’t include any picket rails, which I may make later) if you’re considering this or the Harbor Freight option. Otherwise, it’s a great investment and a solid trailer.
I made some small tablet/phone stands as Christmas gifts for family. Though they’re relatively simple, making a dozen of the exact same piece required thinking ahead.
I used a 7′ (-ish) section of 1x4 poplar from the Home Depot. This was S4S lumber, so it was a good piece to start with. I didn’t have to do any milling (which is good, because I don’t have any real milling tools). I initially cut a few short sections on the miter saw to make a few prototypes. I did a few different slot angles and widths, finally landing on a 3/8″ at 10Â°. The through hole is mainly to help access the home button (or swipe up gesture) when the tablet is upright.
For batching out the remaining dozen of stands, I needed to think through the process to set up repeatable actions for each step. While the miter saw is perfectly capable of making repeatable length cross cuts, I ended up just using the table saw in order to reduce my cleanup time (the dust collection on my table saw is much better and I was already going to use it for the slots).
I then glued up a couple of pieces of scrap to make a jig for drilling out the through hole. This didn’t work out as well as I hoped and I ended up having to just manually align the holes. Cutting them with a forstner bit was at least fast, though. I’ll definitely re-visit that drill press jig if I make more.
Next came cutting the angled slot, which is the only really tricky part of this project. I set my table saw blade at 10Â°. Now, it doesn’t matter what table saw blade I use, because no blade can cut a flat bottom when angled like that. So I have to cut about 5–6 passes and then have some ridges along the bottom of the slot.
To set the bounds for the edges of the slots, I added a couple of quick clamps on to my table saw fence gage to act as stops. Then I just needed to move the fence over just shy of an 1/8th of an inch for each pass until I hit the far stop. I also used my MicroJig Gripper to help hold the pieces. As you can see, the length of the piece between the blade and the fence is more than the width of the piece parallel to the fence. This is generally not a safe cut, but with such a small piece, it not being a through cut, and using the Gripper, I felt completely comfortable making these cuts. After making the cuts, I could use a 1/4″ chisel to clean up the uneven bottom of the slots.
Next came sanding. I sanded each piece through 120, 220, and 400 grit sandpaper. As these are very small pieces, I had to hold the piece in one hand and “air” sand it using the random orbital sander. To say the least, this was exhausting trying to hold vibrating pieces together! I then used my old nemesis, the disc sander, to sand a chamfer onto each edge. I set the table at 45Â° and made a quick pass along each edge. Keep in mind, each of thee blocks has 12 edges and there were a dozen blocks. That’s a long of sanding. At least I got through listening to a majority of my audiobook doing all this receptive cutting and sanding.
It’s during these sort of repetitive actions that it’s very easy to get complacent, which can lead to injury with power tools. Having my minor injury at the end of 2019 and then seeing very competent YouTubers get hurt, I was very aware of this fact. Even Adam Savage has talked about the risk of injury during these sort of repetitive actions. So I did my best to keep my wits about me and pay attention to every cut and every pass with the sander.
I finished each of these with a couple of coats of spar urethane (after stamping the bottom of each). I then gave each a quick knock-down sanding with a sheet of 400 grit sand paper. The finish is glass-like and should hold up to kitchens, bathroom counters, coffee mugs, etc.
After painting most of the rooms in the house over the past 6 months, we finally decided to tackle painting the halls and stairwell.
Like a lot of people around the world, we spent most of 2020 at home. We had planned on a fairly big vacation back in May, but that all got cancelled. We were fortunate to not lose a lot out on that. So, we instead started doing a lot of projects around the house. We updated the bathrooms, tiled a backsplash in the kitchen, worked in the yard, and more. We also had new carpet installed upstairs, switching to a light gray color (from very worn out beige).
We also (finally) got around to painting almost every room in the house. Some of which, like our bedroom, hadn’t been painted since we moved in. But no where in the house needed painting worse than our halls and stair well. Needless to say, with all our bedrooms upstairs, it’s a high traffic spot. We actually did have it painted about 9 years ago by a professional painting company. But between us, two kids going from toddlers to middle-schoolers, and three dogs, it just got beat up over time.
Ideally, I would have gotten to painting all this before the new carpet. Painting the bedrooms before then was great, because we didn’t care at all about the occasional drip of paint on the old carpet, knowing it was about to be discarded. But I certainly used a couple of drop-cloths upstairs. Honestly, I’d just been putting off painting these halls because I wasn’t at all sure how I’d paint the high walls in the stairwell. At its highest point, the ceiling is about 16′ high over the lower stairs. But I invested in a this 18′ multi-position ladder which tackled most of the issue of height. However, positioning it on the stairs is the trick. I saw a couple of YouTube videos in which painters had built their own stair-step platform for positioning ladders. After struggling I realized that I absolutely needed to build something like that.
So I grabbed some scrap plywood and 2x4s and measured the needed cuts right on the steps. That is, I literally never wrote down a single number; just got the top level and made a mark on one of the 2x4s. I pre-drilled the plywood pieces just to keep the screws straight. I screwed the plywood to the 2x4s using some 2″ deck screws — 2 screws for each end of a 2x4. I was worried that it might be a bit wobbly with only those screws in end grain, but 32 screws apparently was sufficient because it was rock solid. I added block of scrap 2x4 to space the top over the baseboard trim and to provide a place for the ladder foot to brace. I can’t say this is the finest piece of woodworking craftsman ship I’ve ever done, my mom recently told me that her father had been a house painter in his first career. So, I decided in that case, this was worthy of putting his name on my build after all.
I was able to place this step platform on the top step, paint the top trim and high wall. I then moved it down a couple of steps to get to the next section. After that, I could reach everything else from just standing on an 20″ painters platform, which is another investment we made for painting rooms in the house. I had used something similar painting houses with Habitat for Humanity and they’re just tall enough to easily paint ceiling trim work. A couple of other handy painting tools that we use:
Sure-Line Extendable Pole — we purchased one of these about 17 years ago and still use it to this day. It’s the single most useful painting supply we’ve ever purchased. With the painting platform and this medium (up to 5′) pole, I could get to my top edge with a roller no problem on a 14′ ceiling at our stair landing.
Wooster Shortcut - this is the best brush for detailed edge work. It’s got nice bristles and the comfortable, short handle is great for fine control. When you’re 14–16′ feet up on a ladder, you want to make sure you don’t have to come back to clean up a bad edge, trust me.
Sure-Line Edger — this is mostly useful for around door or window casing. You do need to be careful in not getting a paint bead on the outer edge (we went back over that with a small 4″ roller immediately to avoid it). The wheels are too far away from the paint pad to help much with ceiling or floor molding, though. This has threads for a pole attachment, but I found it to be useless when I wasn’t holding it.
Lastly, it’s worth noting that we bought good quality rollers, both 12″ and 4″. More importantly, though, is that we bought high quality paint. The paint is Behr Marquee (from. Home Depot) and I honestly cannot recommend this stuff enough. It’s got amazing coverage even with 1 coat in most of our applications (if over an older flat finish, it required two coats with a roller). It dries to the touch in about 30 minutes but keeps a good wet edge just long enough to prevent lines. We like the satin finish for most of our rooms, but did go with an eggshell for the bathrooms, I think. At $45 a gallon, it’s far from cheap but is money well spent. For reference, we just painted two hallways and the stairs using only a single gallon, with some leftover for touch-ups down the road.
I’ll leave you with this one final thought. As we close the final hours on what has been, at best, an interesting (and at worst, a dismal) year, it’s fitting that I’m writing about wrapping up a project I had dreaded for so long. When I mentioned to my dad a couple of days ago I was taking some time off work this week to do this, he suggested this be my next blog post. I wasn’t sure there’d me much to talk about for just painting walls, but I realized I’d learned a lot about painting this year and have gotten pretty good at it. Further, I realized putting off this project was more than my typical procrastination. I was naturally concerned about safety but also just about getting it done right. We tackled a lot of projects while home this year and I managed to turn that into some real know-how and confidence to do more and more, with finally being ready to paint that billboard-sized wall in our stairs! Knowing that there’s no interior paint job I can’t tackle is a great feeling and a nice way for me to close out another year of DIY projects.
Happy New Year and may 2021 bring us all some joy and many more new, great projects!
Angela & I updating our bathroom with new lights, sinks, faucets, and custom mirrors.
After having completed some updates to the other two bathrooms in our house, I have to confess I was somewhat disappointed every time I stepped into our “owner’s” bath, as it was the same old builder-grade stuff. We didn’t want to break the bank in updating it, so we set out with a budget-friendly set of updates we could accomplish ourselves.
You’ll notice that a lot of the images here are out of order, as the work isn’t really done one trade at a time. But I broke this up into the sections of work to better highlight the parts of each.
The overall lighting level in the bathroom wasn’t terrible, but I really didn’t care for the look of the single light above the large mirror. I really wanted to put in some wall sconces. In order to do so, we first had to take out the old light. This was mostly a straight-forward process. I wouldn’t be using the existing location (like I did in the other two bathrooms, more-or-less), so I cut out the wall box and then patched over the opening. I ended up having to cut the wiring, as it was (correctly, per code) sealed into the top plate with some fireproofing foam.
As a result, I had to install a junction box in our attic. I would have to drill laterally through too many studs to use the approach I used to add a second light over the kids’ vanity, so I instead drilled two additional holes in the top plate (I re-used the old, center hole once I freed the cut wiring). I then ran “U” shaped sections of wire to set up the three lights in series from the junction box, which connected back to the wall switch. I put in the old-work boxes and had the lights up in no time. Lastly, I used some expanding fire-proofing foam on the holes in the top plate (no one is ever gonna check, but we’ll know it would pass a code inspection!).
I had ordered some nice-looking wall sconces from Home Depot and used some “Edison” style LED bulbs that I already had. They put out a very “warm” light, but as they’re just above eye level, anything brighter would be too much.
The good news was that since this was already a double vanity, there was no changes needed to the water or drain lines. The bad news was that since this was a double vanity, getting a new top with square bowls was the single most expensive item (by far) of the entire project. Even though it raised the final counter height a bit, we really wanted a slightly thicker top. We found a pretty good deal on an acrylic VersaStone top with integrated sink bowls at Home Depot (it’s out of stock at the time I’m writing this, but Amazon carries a smaller size). Other than the sheer weight of pulling off the old top and then putting the new top in place, this was probably the easiest part of the whole project. The cabinet is a “standard” size, so it fit perfectly.
We also managed to get Moen Genta faucets on sale at the Home Depot, too. They were very straight-forward to install except that I had to cut-down the rod connecting the sink stopper to the pull lever, as it jammed in the drain! I did also have to get some water line extensions (why do plumbers install the water lines so low!). So that was a considerable amount of money (nearly $50) for 2″ of line. But the faucets look great with the lines of the vanity top.
Angela also put in a short backsplash with some marble tiles. We ended up having to cut just a few, and I was able to use a grindstone to bevel the edge of a half-piece so it fit in the end. I think Angela has definitely decided that tiling is her DIY job of choice!
If you’ve never lived in a spec-built home, let me explain something to you: the mirrors are glued to the wall with construction adhesive or mastic. It’s fast and easy to do them this way, but it is a huge pain to remove them. We lucked out in getting the smaller ones off the walls years ago. But the mirror in our bathroom was 6 feet by 3–1/2 feet. We knew it had to go, but we were more-or-less terrified about splitting it into a million pieces all over our bathroom. I watched a number of YouTube videos about the process and it seemed that prying it off all along the top by driving in wooden shims was considered the best approach. So, I got a very large pack of 14″ shims and then proceeded to tape up the mirror. You may think this was overkill for the tape, but I seriously considered just covering the entire thing! Angela was there for support, both figuratively and literally (do not try something like this on your own!). We went through the entire pack of shims, even going so far as to re-using some that fell down and we could reach. In the end, we had them stacked about four thick. But with a final, satisfying pop, the mirror came free in one piece. It weighed 70 lbs (I did the math), which isn’t a lot for the two of us to carry, but when it’s that large and fragile, it’s pretty scary.
We had to patch up the walls where the adhesive pulled off the outer layer of drywall paper. I’ve learned the hard way that this stuff is nearly impossible to patch right, even with drywall compound because the inner, brown paper isn’t water proof. It just sucks up the moisture and then bubbles up when painted. Using a repair primer first seals off that paper. We used Zinsser Gardz, because it’s available in a quart (however, I understand Roman Rx-35 Pro-999 is just as good; it just only comes in a gallon and this stuff goes a long way). Just make sure you cut back to sound outer paper and paint it on with a foam brush (it’s like milk). Then you can patch up the drywall with compound, sand, and paint.
I used some mineral spirits to soften up the adhesive on the back of the mirror once I got it out to the garage floor on some cardboard. A rubber headed hammer and a wide putty knife made short work of scraping it off. I then used a cheap‑o glass cutter and a drywall square to score the front surface along the first cut. I was planning to lower it back over a broom handle as a pivot, but it ended up just splitting as I lowered it! One quick change over underpants later, I repeated to split the smaller side into two final sections.
I ordered a couple of 6′ long, maple 1x4’s to mill up into some frames. I wanted a narrow, yet deep frame for each. So they were essentially cut into 1x2’s, framed in the “skinny” direction. The boards were pretty rough, with lots of chatter marks and sniping. I don’t have a planar, but I was able to smooth them down with my belt sander. Ripping the pieces into narrow boards certainly relieved a lot of strain, to the point I was concerned I wouldn’t have enough straight sections to make decent frames! But the hockey stick end aside, I was able to measure and miter each board to fit the mirrors. I cut the dados on the table saw. The glue-up for the frames was pretty easy, though having only one band clamp and limited work space meant I had to make one at a time.
I tried using some plain spar urethane at first on a sample piece to try to match the cabinetry, which while also maple is now over 12 years old. It wasn’t nearly a dark enough match, but my son helped me pick out a close color of get stain at Woodcraft to match one of the false drawer fronts. So, American Oak color wiped on very thin and then finished with spar urethane spray does a very good job of matching older maple, if you ever find yourself needing to do such a thing. Just be sure to do a better job cleaning up your glue and wood filler than I did first.
I used an 18gage nailer to reinforce the miter joints from the bottom and top, none of which are visible when hanging. I used some thin foam sheets to pad the mirror and then covered the back with a 1/4″ sheet of plywood. I used a couple of simple metal clips to hold it in place. The narrow frame means that the hanging hooks are visible from the side, but otherwise it’s a very clean and minimal look.
So that’s our final bathroom update! And making those mirrors was a really great experience.
As our kids have gotten older, they have outgrown their shared hallway bathroom. So we decided to give them two sinks and some more storage space.
In all fairness, “renovation” is probably not the best word for this project. We didn’t exactly tear down the room to bare studs or anything. However, it did touch on just about every DIY skillset I have! And we agreed that if we were going to do this project ourselves and not hire anyone, we were still going to make sure every aspect was done right.
We used a similar IKEA cabinet with drawers to the one we installed in our downstairs bath update. This is the IKEA Hemnes vanity and wall cabinet, along with the match Odensvik sink. We also used a pair of the Ensen faucets from IKEA. These cabinets are great for storage but be prepared to do some modifications to your plumbing lines as they almost certainly will have to be cut shorter!
However, where that had a pedestal sink, this bathroom had a full cabinet with a closed base. The new cabinet was shorter in depth and also had an open cabinet. Upon pulling out the old cabinet, we immediately realized that the tile was place after the cabinet and therefore didn’t continue beneath it. Angela was able to locate some matching tile used in the bathroom. We had to remove some of the tiles that had been cut around the cabinet footprint. A grout removal blade on a cordless oscillating multitool made this an easy job (I started off trying to remove the grout by hand and it was nearly impossible with the epoxy grout). My son helped out placing some underlayment. The composite vinyl tile used floor adhesive and silicon grout (which is honestly way worse to place than normal tile grout). We were able to mostly match up the grout, though.
For lighting, I added a second light mount in series with the original. The builders of this home used possibly the worst light mount boxes, so I ended up replacing the original with an old work box. I drilled through a couple of studs to run the wire, which was difficult at best1. The other electric work consisted of moving an outlet a few inches out of the corner so that it wouldn’t be blocked by the wall cabinet. I used my multitool again here to quickly cut out the old box and then cut in a space for an old work box about 5″ to the left. Seems like a lot of effort for not much distance, but it makes the outlet much easier to get to.
With the electrical out of the way, it was time to patch up the walls. I’ve learned a bit about drywall repair and I can say from experience that drywall compound is far better to work with than spackle for anything larger than a nail hole. For covering larger openings, also use a metal mesh patch. The one downside to drywall compound is that it’s a ton of sanding and therefore a huge, dusty mess. But the results are worth it. My wife and daughter painted the room a blue-gray once all the sanding was complete.
Next, it was time for plumbing. Unlike our downstairs bath, the supply lines and drains in the wall stuck out too far for the IKEA cabinets. In order to cut back supply lines, we had to shut off the main water supply to the house. We had fortunately never had to do that before so locating it was a headache. In our defense, it’s upstairs in a hall closet where our water heater tank is located and doesn’t look like any other water shut-off valve I could find on the internet! Once we got the water shut off and the pipe pressure relieved by opening a tub faucet downstairs, I could cut the lines. Actually, Angela ended up cutting the second and putting a new shut-off valve on since I had to run to the store to get some more compression rings (the old ones weren’t coming off and I only had one for some reason). The drain was easy to cut back using the multitool again (it’s a great demo tool!). I installed the line splitters and fit up all the drain lines for the two sinks after that.
The open cabinet meant that I needed to place floor trim all along the wall where the old cabinet previously was. I was able to purchase some matching MDF floor molding and shoe molding. I cut it to size, sneaking up so it would make a nice, tight miter in the corner. Of course, the walls were not really straight at all. The one new tool major tool I purchased for this project was a battery powered trim nailer and it made installing the molding a breeze. With that in place, we could hang the cabinet and set the vanity top.
The last thing to do was to hang the wall cabinet with the mirrors. Unfortunately, both Angela and I hadn’t really thought through all the distances. There was enough space for the full cabinet between the top of the faucets and the bottom of the light fixtures, but just barely. That is, you wouldn’t actually be able to put your hand on the faucet and turn it on! We even tried turning the lights to point up (keen eyes may have noted that in the first photo), but it still wasn’t going to be enough space for the wall cabinet.
I had a plan, though. I took the wall cabinet apart and did somea lot of measuring. I then took the sides and back panels out to the garage workshop. I was going to simply remove the bottom shelf and thereby shorten the cabinet 6–1/2″. The sides were actual stained pine, so I didn’t have to worry about a veneer tearing too much. I made the cuts to length using the miter gage. I then cut about the final inch off of those off-cuts. This would give me a drill template for the dowel and screw holes in the “new” bottoms. I then cut the back panels down by the same amount. The cabinet went back together perfectly. There was even a consistent gap all around the mirror doors!
The last major piece to install was a new toilet. The old toilet was a short height, round bowl (i.e., a “kiddy” size toilet — this photo does not do the size difference justice). We opted for a reasonably priced Delta toilet. I was a bit nervous about the removal and installation, but it went pretty easily and was far less unpleasant than I expected. That being said, the Delta toilet is pretty lousy and I wouldn’t recommend it to anyone.
We hung up some matching hand towel and robe hooks for the kids to finish off the room. So there you have it: demo, tiling, electrical, plumbing, drywall, painting, and carpentry all in one small bathroom renovation! But it really has inspired our confidence to tackle even more projects. I’m pleased with how everything turned out and that I know everything’s done correctly, too.
In fact, I nearly drilled right into a live 110v line to an outlet using a spade bit. Fortunately, I was going fairly slowly. However, that could have easily gone very badly for me. [↩]
We’ve been working for the past couple of months to update the bathrooms in our house. We started with the simplest update: replacing a pedestal sink with a small IKEA cabinet. We also repainted, updated the lighting, and hung new art & a mirror.
First of all: we’re really bad at taking “before” photos for some reason and it’s not like we had a lot of random photos of our bathrooms, anyway. So there’s not much to show for that. This bathroom never had any storage and our previous clunky attempts at adding some never really solved that issue. So, the main update was to remove the builder-grade pedestal sink and to replace this with a cabinet.
We got a small cabinet with two drawers along with sink & faucet from IKEA. Their Hemnes cabinets have full-depth drawers. This is accomplished by a very shallow sink and a drain that has a couple of hard 90Â° bends to go behind the drawers. Also, this requires that the shut-off values and drain connection extend less than 4″ from the wall. Fortunately, we didn’t have to make any changes to the plumbing connections for this to fit. We did shift the center of the sink away from the wall, so as to not crowd the cabinet into the corner. This gives it more of a “furniture” look, which was the aesthetic we were shooting for (with the Euro-style open base and all). One piece of advice if you choose to do this: give yourself a few inches to paint the wall beside the cabinet. Otherwise, you’ll have to call on your skinny-armed child to come do that and they might not be the best painting labor.
The lighting also needed to move over to be centered on the newly placed sink. The wall box for the lighting was attached to a stud which was right where I need to place the light. So we opted for a light with a larger wall covering. I simply cut a new hole in the mounting plate and wired through that.
The mirror was one we had previously used in another bathroom but would match the white on gray color scheme here. My daughter painted a scene from the movie Spirited Away and I decided to make a frame for it. I got some poplar 1x2 from the big box hardware store. Poplar is a fairly fast growing and therefore cheap hardwood and would be a lost cost, low risk way to practice making a frame. I used a “floating” frame technique by cutting a rabbet along the inside, which gives the painting the appearance of floating (well, a bit of a shadow line anyway). I also got a frame band clamp to help keep the frame together. I had to build in an internal frame of scrap plywood pieces, as the paining wasn’t on a canvas but rather a board. I use whatever white rattle can spray paints I had to cover the frame, which didn’t turn out so well. But the frame was mostly square with tight miter joints!
We painting the bathroom a nice gray (which we’ve now used in all our bathrooms). The whole room feels much larger, even with the cabinet as there is no longer a tower of cubbies for awkward storage next to the toilet. And those drawers hold even more!
After a couple of years of using a portable table saw, which actually belongs to my older brother (thanks, Steve!), I decided to purchase an upgraded table saw for my woodworking projects. I’ll describe a bit of why I decided on this model and what I think of it in this post.
The Old Saw
First, about the old table saw. It’s a Ryobi and it really did serve me well on quite a few projects. I certainly pushed the limit of what this saw is capable of. And for probably 90% of the projects, it was up to the task. Seriously, for a lot of DIY’ers, this is a perfectly good saw. I put a quality blade (a 50 tooth Freud Diablo), which dramatically improves the cut of any saw. I built a cross-cut sled that made a lot of cuts feasible.
But the saw is very lightweight, and sometimes pushing the sled into the blade would actually start to tip the entire saw! Also, the fence while actually pretty accurate, isn’t great. So, if you’re just ripping medium size pieces or making small cross-cuts, this saw can manage it. I actually even managed to rip down bed rails from a full size 4’x8’ sheet of 3/4″ maple plywood on this little thing! One place where this kind of saw just completely fails, though, is in dust collection. That is, there is none other than gravity generally making a giant pile beneath the saw.
New Saws Out There
I did quite a lot of research on table saws. I did consider a “job site” saw and putting it on a mobile base (or even re-building my mobile workbench). These are some pretty great saws in the $250-$600 price range. The next jump up in price range is a “hybrid” table saw, which is nominally portable (if “portable” only means having casters and weighing under 250 lbs). These have the larger table of a cabinet saw and typically better fence systems. These tend to be in the $700-$1,200 price range. Of course, there are cabinet saws for professionals which cost far more, typically require 220v power, and are far more saw than I could ever justify. And there are Saw Stop saws in all these categories and while their flesh-sensing system is amazing, I also can’t justify the cost for those. Really, Saw Stop sort of sit in a class of their own, in my opinion.
Within the hybrid saw class, most of the saws are really around $1,000 and up. There are some great saws in that price range. The big box stores have a couple of “entry” level models, though: the Ridgid and a Delta (why Lowes hasn’t label-slapped this as a Kobalt, I don’t really know). Between the two of those, the Delta seemed to typically get better reviews and was a bit cheaper at $600 at the time I purchased it (July 2020). Further, the Delta just got a newer version released with some decent improvements. Home Depot actually does also carry the Delta, but at $300 more.
The Delta 36–725T2
So what kind of table saw do you get for $600? First of all, a Biesemeyer fence system, which can cost over $400 separately. The center of the table is cast iron and the wings are steel. I found that the top may have a slight dip to the middle (that is, I could see a slight bit of light beneath a straight edge laid across it), but is more than flat enough for anything I’ll ever want to make. The wings aren’t stamped sheet metal, but actually steel plate, similar in thickness to the angle rails and square tube used for the front fence. Even the blade that is included is pretty decent. I ripped two 4′ lengths of 3/4″ plywood to make some French cleats and it was a clean cut on both. And while the dust collection isn’t perfect, it’s actually quite good. Also, the mitre included has a nice steel bar and heavy plastic body.
The entire saw took me about 2–1/2 hours to assemble, and that includes having to take apart almost the entire thing to swap the side the swivel caster was on. Also, I should have paid closer attention to the hole patterns on the wings, as I had to turn those around and re-level them. If I’d paid closer attention, I could have easily been done in under two hours without rushing. My wife did need to help me get the box out of the back of our SUV by lowering one end down to the floor. Otherwise, I was able to put the saw together by myself, including tipping it up (I used an extra scrap 2x to help tip it easy so I could get my hands under the cast iron top and just squat lift).
The scale on the rail was nearly spot-on out of the box. Similarly, the saw was very close to parallel to the mitre slots. How close? Well, I couldn’t actually measure the difference with a quality sliding square, but I could hear a tooth rubbing the end more at one end than the other. So yeah, pretty close. The fence is pretty spot on and super easy to adjust. I saw a few reviewers commenting that the angle gauge was off, but mine was within 1–2 tenths of a degree. It’s also easy to adjust (and, honestly, I have a digital angle gauge so I’m more likely to rely on that anyway). I haven’t run into anything about the saw so far that I couldn’t quickly tweak.
The saw is a bit bigger than I’d hoped, though (hold on, I’ll explain). I had planned on just rolling it beneath my fixed work bench. Since I couldn’t, I ended up having to re-arrange a lot in my garage. This was my biggest worry, but it ended up just fine and frankly, having to clean up the garage wasn’t the worst thing in the world. Fortunately, the casters are pretty good and the saw rolls & turns very easily despite weighing 220 lbs. I’ve moved it in and out of the “parked” spot several times for use now and it’s not been a bother.
Using the Saw
So I’ve used the saw for several different cuts now. As I mentioned earlier, I did several long-ish rips of plywood to make some French cleats. I also ended up having to cut down sides and back panels of an IKEA wall vanity (pine and hardboard). I used the mitre gage to make the cross cuts on the side panels as I haven’t made a new sled for this table saw yet. However, the mitre gage worked great for this purpose. I cut about half-way through the side piece, flipped it over and repeated. This reduced tear-out on both faces (and by reduced, I mean there was zero). But of course, to do this you have to have the blade dead parallel to the mitre gage and it was (again, right out of the box!).
The fence has a small rail that folds out on the right-hand side to make cuts on thin stock, such as the hard board back panels. This works perfect and prevents the material from sliding under the fence (which sits about 1/8″ above the table top). I also used the table saw to cut an angled dado into a poplar board, which was used to make a tablet/phone stand. I also used the saw to cut down some 1/4″ underlayment boards for a tiling project. So, not a ton of use, but a pretty good variety of types of cuts and everyone has had me even more happy with the purchase.
I do wish I’d cleaned and waxed the cast iron top as soon as I got it put together, though. It took only about 2–3 days for the Tennessee summer humidity to charm some rust out of the cast iron. I’ve since sanded, cleaned, and waxed it, but now there are some stains in the cast iron. They don’t in any way affect the saw, but good tools are worth taking good care of.
Lastly, one feature I didn’t know that I’d like so much is just how quiet this saw is. The magnetic start button is great and the saw is so much quieter than my shop vac, I can barely hear it!
A couple of things I had been curios about before getting it, so I’ll answer those here just in case anyone else is interested:
The box is 30″ x 24″ x 19″ and includes everything, including the rails (I think the larger top version has a separate box).
A Lowes employee helped me load the box onto a flat cart and a couple of others loaded it into my vehicle for me, but my wife and I were able to slide it out and down out of the back of the SUV. Beats paying a $60–70 delivery fee!
The length of the rear rail is 54 3/8″ and the distance from the spreader bar to the end of rear rail is 2 1/2″. The front rail is 62″. I think I was able to look up all the other dimensions online.
The tubular frame is crazy strong (like, I’m a structural engineer and I’ve seen buildings with smaller tube members); though it is rectangular. That is to say, you can rotate the lower half so the swivel lift caster is on the left or right, but not the front or back.
The three caster wheel occasionally “tips” a bit, but the corner of the frame prevents it from tipping more than just a few inches. So, the saw isn’t going to fall over on you; just occasionally catch if you make some aggressive maneuvers while moving it.
I made a small, wooden box using finger joints to store my resistors used for electronics projects.
Iâ€™ve been hoping to practice using box joints for quite a while. My sanding accident back at the end of 2019 was in trying to make a box joint jig for the table saw sled. When I finally did make that, the results werenâ€™t great. So I decided to purchase a commercial box joint jig for a router table from Rockler. After a quick test, I also purchased some longer, straight cut bits.
The first step was to use my (new!) table saw to cut the 1/2â€ plywood pieces. I also cut the slot in each side to accommodate the 1/4â€ plywood bottom. Iâ€™m not sure this last step wasnâ€™t a mistake in my order of operations, though. I ended up getting some really bad treat out from the router on that little strip of wood on two of the sides. I do think now that a spiral down-cut bit may also help with this.
So, this box joint jig is intended for a router table. A router table, in brief is used to mount a router upside down below. This then allows you to bring the workpiece to the tool, rather than taking the router to the piece. This is essential in smaller pieces and for many jigs. Now, my router â€œtableâ€ is just a piece of 3/4â€ MDF scrap I clamp to my workbench. I can then clamp the jig to that. I used a few more scrap pieces to clamp the shop vac hose as dust extraction. I did several test cuts on some scrap to â€œdial inâ€ the finger width to get a good fit.
After the pieces were cut, I had some repair to do. While plywood is a great material, itâ€™s not the best choice for this particular method of cutting box joints. There was a lot of tear-out. I was able to use some glue & sawdust to fix some of these before flying up the box. Glue up for box joints isnâ€™t hard, but I could see if being difficult on a large piece with all those fingers. But itâ€™s at least easy to keep things square.
Once the glue cured, it was time to sand down the fingers flush to the box faces. Here again, plywood isnâ€™t very forgiving. The thin face veneer sands away quickly on the disc sander. Next it was time for wood filler. Those slots left 1/4â€ holes in each corner. And the plywood tear out had numerous gaps. So I went a little crazy with the wood filler. This then left me with another round of sanding. By this point, the birch veneer was completely gone in some spots around the fingers.
Lastly, I used the Cricut to create some vinyl stencils for the large omega (the symbol used in electrical engineering for resistance). The stencil worked great, but the adhesive back ended up pulling off some small veneer fibers. So yet another drawback of plywood here. The final step was to use some wipe-on gel polyurethane finish. I think maybe doing the stencil between two layers of finish would have helped prevent the fibers lifting.
One of the reasons to make this is that itâ€™s not a show piece. This is just something to replace the cardboard box I had used for a couple of years to store resistors. That way I can learn and practice with no pressure. I definitely did learn a lot and Iâ€™m not even disappointed in the final result, despite the flaws.